
The back, the yoke, the yardage. Lapped seams,
The nearly invisible stitches along the collar
Turned in a sweatshop by Koreans or Malaysians
Or talking money or politics while one fitted
This armpiece with its overseam to the band
The wringer, the mangle. The needle, the union,
The treadle, the bobbin. The code. The infamous blaze
One hundred and forty-six died in the flames
On the ninth floor, no hydrants, no fire escapes--
Who watched how a young man helped a girl to step
Up to the windowsill, then held her out
And then another. As if he were helping them up
To enter a streetcar, and not eternity.
Around his neck and kissed him. Then he held
Her into space, and dropped her. Almost at once
And fluttered up from his shirt as he came down,
Air filling up the legs of his gray trousers--
Wonderful how the pattern matches perfectly
Across the placket and over the twin bar-tacked
Or a major chord. Prints, plaids, checks,
Houndstooth, Tattersall, Madras. The clan tartans
To control their savage Scottish workers, tamed
By a fabricated heraldry: MacGregor,
To wear among the dusty clattering looms.
Weavers, carders, spinners. The loader,
Sweating at her machine in a litter of cotton
As slaves in calico headrags sweated in fields:
Lady in South Carolina, her name is Irma
And she inspected my shirt. Its color and fit
Both her and me. We have culled its cost and quality
Down to the buttons of simulated bone,
Printed in black on neckband and tail. The shape,
The label, the labor, the color, the shade. The shirt.











